ATV – Building a Response – Develop Textile Concepts – pt2

Continuing to work with the sweeping shapes that I had previously manipulated and played around with.

The black bent shapes I cut by hand and I particularly like these shapes. I think it would work well in appliqué using Sheila Frampton-Cooper as an influence. Sheila works in far brighter colours, I’m wondering if I could work a slightly bigger composition with these shapes as a focal point as she has done with Kelp.


I’m a great lover of happy accidents and reusing stuff that has been cast off so the next 2 compositions are made with the carbon paper I had left over from making a couple of tracings of the original sketch.  

I’m very drawn to the first composition of thin lines on the black, although I do not particularly like the paper translation. I can see it worked on chiffon or organza. I looked through some of Maggie Grey’s work because I know she likes to work with these types of fabric but I think her work is too detailed for what I’d like to do. I am more drawn to garments and gowns, like these Art Deco dresses.


When I think of these textile concepts I think of drape and soft handling. I think of flowing lines and naturally folding material and I could well be getting towards a way to translate these ideas. 

Now the paper version of the 3rd composition is much nicer than the 2nd but I’m not sure if it can be translated to keep the qualities that I want of softness unless! I could use nuno felting, now that would work. Very light, gentle wool tops worked into light black chiffon. Now that I like the idea of that! 


I haven’t done any nuno felting for a long time and it would be lovely to do it again.

This white layered piece reminds me of the wonderful dress design I saw at Manchester Art Museum by Xenia Telunts. She had made a simple but very moving design called Restriction. Xenia took her inspiration from the women who during WW1 because of mental distress found themselves committed to asylums.


I don’t want to copy Xenia’s fabric choices but I would like to test recreating the layering with heated synthetic fabrics and black felt.  The base layer could be similar to Emily Sladen’s work.


I think the black shapes would be best made out of felt or boiled wool because that will ensure that it is very opaque like the black card. 

For the black dotted piece I can see tambour embroidery but can I do this? Can I stitch with beads like this? I really like the simple and elegant beautiful work of Narciso Rodriguez.


If I used this technique then I could continue using light chiffon type material that is starting to become a theme running through my designs. I like the way that Chanel stretch the base fabric on frames, I never studied tambour embroidery so I would only be doing an approximation but that would be interesting and exciting in itself.


The third composition I made with the concept of ‘near and far’ in my mind. I really like the layering and it reminds me of the work of Holly Fulton in the Fashion and Freedom exhibition at the Manchester Art Museum. I spent a lot of time looking at this beautifully structured garment. It’s so very different from anything that we would wear now.

 I love the layering and the attention to detail and I wonder if I could use elements of Holly’s construction techniques.

Categories: Art, ATV - Part 5 - Building a collection, ATV - Part 5 - PJ 2 - Building a Response, ATV - Pt5 - PJ2 - Develop textile concepts, Textiles 1: A Textiles Vocabulary

1 reply »

  1. There are some exciting ideas here, Sally – your mind seems to be fizzing and making great connections with your own preferences and your research. Really excited to see where this goes.

    Like

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